In October 2019, we went to Morocco. We were able to spend three weeks in this wonderful country.
As we researched itineraries and options we came across a few surprises that left lasting impressions on us. We had selected Rabat as a starting point based on others recommendations.
We stumbled across a riad that looked promising and inquired about a reservation. It turned out that Youcef owned the building and was renovating it for himself, his family and making several rooms into a guesthouse. The project was delayed, but he offered us a stay in one of the rooms that was finished.
We arrived in Casablanca where Youcef had helped us arrange transport to Rabat with a private driver. We eventually made contact with the driver at the airport and we drove up the coast in the warm evening air and saw what we could see of Casablanca before we headed up the A1.
We decompressed in Rabat for a couple of days while we tried to figure out SIM cards. Having a better understanding of French would have gone a long way. And, this was prior to the translate apps that are now default on iPhones.
From Rabat, we took a train to Fes. About a two hour trip, we passed through the Meknes region, but saved that for another trip.
In Fes, we arranged transport from the train station to one of the entry gates to the ancient city. We were to stay in the Dar Roumana, https://www.darroumana.com.
We stayed in the Library room. We ate a few meals at the Dar and they helped arrange a few meals in nearby restaurants. Because we wouldn’t be able to easily navigate at night, an escort was provided to and from the Dar to various restaurants.
We walked everywhere in Fes and felt safe and secure. One of our days we hired a local guide who took us through a number of areas including the Moulay (sp), the leather working area and a few shops where we helped the economy. Of special note was the government sponsored ceramic and tile factory where we saw the work being created in many of the same ways it has always been.
From Fes, we flew to Marrakech where we were met at the airport and were transferred to the Bab Laksour (the gate nearest). We were welcomed into Dar Attajimil, https://www.darattajmil.com/en/home/ , a beautiful riad that is within a block of the Djemaa El Fnaa square. We were served mint tea as we were received. After a rest, we had a fantastic dinner on the rooftop deck while the stars came out.
Over the next few days we toured the Méchouar Kasba, the Médina, the Badii Palace, the Jardin Majorelle and back through the stalls and paths of the Médina and after nightfall back out into the Djemaa El Fnaa square because it all looks different at night. The square becomes packed with food stalls, entertainers and storytellers.
One of the highlights of the trip was a cooking class we took at Dar Attijimil. As part of the class, we shopped the markets and bought back vegetables that we would later prepare for our evening meal. Fatima was our chef and instructor in the kitchen as we prepped veg and loaded small tagines for the wood fire. We helped prepare bread that we then took around the corner to bake in ovens heated for both baking and heating water for the local hamman.
From Marrakech we were transferred by car to Al Haouz-Asni region for a stay at Kasbah du Toubkal, https://kasbahtoubkal.com. About an hour drive, we were able to see agriculture, small towns and fantastic roads as we climbed into the mountains. This region was the epicenter of a large earthquake on September 9, 2023 and we’ve read about the destruction and loss of life in these small villages.
The final mile to the Kasbah du Toubkal is by foot with pack animals. The hotel has a focus on sustainability and strong ties to local Berber communities including a girls school and walking tours of the apple orchards and villages in the valley.
From Toubkal, we transferred to Essaouria a small city on the coast. Along the way, we stopped to see the goats-in-a-tree; a fleecing of the tourists. We made a small contribution and continued on our way arriving at sunset at Le Heure Bleue Palais. We watched the sun set and enjoyed a fine meal in the hotel. The next day we walked the city and beach, drank tea, visited shops and soaked up the beach vibe.
From Essaouria, we transferred via car on a multi-hour drive north to Casablanca. We saw lots of interesting country.
Arriving in Casablanca, we stayed at the Four Seasons for a night. We were only there to sleep before we hopped on the plane to head home. We evidently were given some type of upgraded status and ended up in a suite. It rained just as we arrived which gave the scene a bit of shimmer.
One of the side effects of this trip for me was digging into a lot of books about Morocco. Several of these were about the perils of buying and remodeling others were more cultural or historical. I went through a phase of reading Tahir Shah’s, Suzanna Clark, Edith Wharton and Paul Bowles.
Tahir Shah, https://www.tahirshah.com
Suzanna Clarke’s, A House in Fez: Building a Life in the Ancient Heart of Morocco
Edith Wharton, In Morocco
Paul Bowles, Short Stories